If you're been wanting to learn how to sew garments, but have been too intimidated, try a pair of pajama shorts. If you have a Baby Lock serger, they'll come together super fast. The addition of a lace hem makes these shorts look custom and unique, giving you the most stylish pajamas around! Download printable instructions.


  • 4 Spools Madeira® Aerolock serger thread to match fabric
  • Madeira® Aerofil all-purpose sewing thread to match fabric
  • Pajama shorts pattern with fold-over waistband like McCall’s 5989
  • Fabric yardage for your measurements based on the pattern
  • 4” of coordinating fabric for your waistband tie
  • 1” Elastic (measure your waistband where you want your shorts to sit and cut that exact amount)
  • Soft lace (measure a pair of your favorite loose-fitting shorts for an accurate length)
  • 3” x 1-1/2” scrap piece of fusible interfacing (to stabilize buttonholes)
  • Skinny loop turner
  • Frixion heat-erasable pen
  • Wonder Clips



  1. Cut out the front and back shorts according to your size.

    1. I like to mark “Front” and “Back” on the pieces with a Frixion heat-erasable pen within the waistband allowance because the front and back look so similar.

    2. For the waistband tie, cut two 44” x 1-1/2” strips of fabric and stitch together with a 1/4” seam allowance to create about an 87” long strip of fabric.

    3. Trim down seam to an 1/8” and press open that tiny seam.

  2. Serge the waistband tie first. Set up your serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch.

    1. Fold your fabric in half lengthwise (right sides together) and serge together the two long raw edges. If you need to pin, consider using Wonder Clips instead.

    2. Turn right side out with a skinny loop turner and press.

  3. Now serge the inseam of your shorts. Line up the center seams of one front to one back for both.

    1. The 4-thread overlock stitch is about 3/8” and most garment patterns are 5/8” (check your pattern), meaning you’ll need to serge off a 1/4”.

    2. You can draw your 5/8” seam line on your fabric with a Frixion pen to see where your left needle will hit, where you’ll line up your fabric and how much you’ll cut off.

  4. Line up your outside seams and serge those as you did the inseam (lining them up the same to get your 5/8” seam allowance).

  5. Turn one leg right side out and insert into the other leg that is inside out, matching the crotch seam and inseams evenly.

    1. Wonder Clip this seam and carefully serge the entire curve with your 5/8” seam allowance (cutting off about a 1/4” as you have been doing for the other seams).

  6. Use the sewing machine to baste a 1/2” down around the entire raw waistband edge. Optional: place a satin ribbon tag folded in half under my basting near the center back seam.

    1. Press the raw edge in along that 1/2” stitched line. Then, try on your shorts and mark/pin how much further you need to fold down your waistband.

    2. Sometimes it’s a little more/less than the pattern says. Press down again at this additional mark.

  7. Then on the right side of your shorts within the waistband, find your center front seam.

    1. We need to place some buttonholes 3/4” away from the center front seam.

    2. First, decide where you’re going to stitch down the waistband (around the entire waistband), but don’t stitch it yet (you wouldn’t be able to stitch your buttonholes).

    3. You need to figure out where this stitch line will be so you can center your buttonholes between that line and the top edge of your shorts.

    4. My buttonhole placement ended up being 3/8” down from the top and 3/4” over in both directions from the side seam.

    5. Don’t forget to put a little fusible stabilizer behind where your buttonholes will be before stitching.

  8. Open your buttonhole foot to about 1/2” and follow your machine instructions to stitch those two buttonholes.

    1. After you’ve stitched your buttonholes, stitch down your waistband, leaving about 2”-3” open to insert your elastic.

  9. Cut your elastic the exact length of your waistband measurement (where you want your shorts to sit on your hips).

    1. Insert elastic and stitch the two elastic ends together. I like to overlap the ends about 1” and stitch down flat.

    2. Try on your shorts and see if you like the fit or if you need to adjust the elastic.

    3. While you have them on, mark where you want the hem to lay (if you want to cut any off).

    4. Adjust elastic if necessary and stitch waistband opening closed

  10. Cut your shorts to the desired length (take into account you’ll be adding your lace trim).

    1. Again, using your 4-thread overlock stitch, place your lace pretty sides together with your hem and serge the lace to your shorts, being careful not to clip the lace.

    2. Overlap the lace ends at the inseam a wee bit. Zigzag over the lace edges at the inseam with your sewing machine to blend them and connect them.

  11. Press the lace down; run a topstitch 1/8” up from the seam on the fabric to hold up the seam allowance and the lace down. And done!

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