Project Glitzy Serged Table Runner
Skill Level: Intermediate
Skill Level: Intermediate
Add this fun table runner to your holiday celebrations! Practice serging circles and play with Madeira Glamour Thread in this fun tutorial! Download printable instructions.
*This tutorial was recreated from a previous Baby Lock education project.
Following the instructions for the fusible webbing, fuse the two cotton fabrics together with wrong sides together, so that you’ll have one fabric on top and the other on the opposite side.
The webbing is only 17” wide, so you’ll need to cut and butt the webbing up next to each other to fill the fabric space. Work in sections to fuse the entire yard together.
Then, fold your fabric in half again lengthwise (selvage to selvage) and draw six 10” circle .
(Find a bowl or print two of the semi-circle templates at the end of this tutorial and tape them together.) Or, if you prefer to cut out each circle individually (instead of two-at-a-time), leave your fabric unfolded and draw twelve circles. TIP: When drawing the circles onto your fabric, try to keep them in line with each other when cutting, especially if you are using a geometric print. The patterns will look more aligned when stitched together later.
Cut out your circles either two-at-a-time with the fabric doubled over or as a single circle at a time. Regardless, you need twelve double-sided fused circles. Take your time cutting them out so that they are more even.
Next, use the included square template.
Center it on each circle and trace around it on your fabric with a fabric marking tool. Because I used a geometric-patterned fabric, it was easy to keep the shapes oriented the same way. Keep the direction of your fabric’s pattern in mind when tracing the squares on to your fabric.
Stitch along the marked line, using a thread that will hide on the outside fabric.
The black fabric in my project created the 4-pointed stars in the project and therefore, was the outside fabric. So, I used a black thread that would not show and wouldn’t need to be removed later. These stitch lines will help you identify the fold lines. If you have a fabric that will show the stitch lines too much for your liking, you may opt to use a basting stitch to pull it out later. Below: the drawn line is faint, but it’s there and I’m using the Teflon foot on this fabric. You can see my needle is in the center and I’m following that line to stitch the square on every circle. This stitch line is very helpful with pressing the correct amount in on each circle consistently later in the project.
Now, we get to use that fun Madeira Glamour Thread! Set up your serger with a 3-thread Overlock Wide stitch.
Place regular serger thread in the needle and the Glamour thread in the upper and lower loopers. Set your stitch width at 6 or 7 and your stitch length at 1.5. If you have the Curve Foot for your serger, use it because, it works great for turning all of those curves in this project. Test your stitch prior to your actual project circles to ensure you like the settings. If you are new to serging circles, you might even cut out a test circle to practice! See where I tend to line the edge of my circle up in the picture below. I try to keep the curve lined up with the back of the blade. Since it is constantly curving, this is the best place to continually keep it lined up at as you stitch, so that the stitch lays where you’d like it to. TIP: Every time you start, you may need to pull the thread tail back so that you undo the serger tail braid so that it’s easier to get the next circle in flat. Another TIP: Try to start in the same spot on every circle. I used a corner of one of my stitched squares as a starting point.
When you end a circle, lock the blade down before you get to the stitches so that it doesn’t nick any of your beginning stitches.
Try to aim that Overlock 1 Needle Thread in the beginning stitch towards the O1 Needle. Tip: The notches on the foot line up with each needle position.
Pull the beginning serger tail to the left and let it lock underneath the end of the stitch. Overlap the ending stitch over the beginning stitch about an inch. Trim the locked stitch (underneath), but leave the ending thread tail.
Press each circle with a steam iron.
Place two circles wrong-sides together (the 4-point star fabric will be the “wrong-sides”).
Line up the two circles with an edge of the stitched square (within the circle) and stitch along that line (and only that one edge of the square) from edge to edge of the circle. I tried to keep the serger thread tails (where the decorative thread overlapped) matched up so that they would all be placed towards the center and hide under the button later. But, I also wanted my geometric pattern to line up so, I paid attention to the pattern direction, as well.
Press open the first petal.
Repeat step 8 for another two circles.
Line up the two sets, wrong-sides together and stitch along one long edge of the square.
(Technically, two squares, but it’s one long/straight edge) that will create the center of the set of 4 circles (when pressed open after stitching). Press that center seam open to reveal your first pretty star.
Complete two more sets of 4 circles. Then, stitch the three sets together and press open.
Topstitch down all of the “petals” with a center straight stitch.
You may opt for a 3mm stitch length for this topstitch. I just stitched right next to my decorative serger thread stitch. When I got to a serger thread tail, I tucked it under a petal where it would be stitched in place and hidden forever.
Next, press all of the remaining circles in to create a rectangle table runner.
Then, topstitch these down, as well. When I got to an intersection of petals along the edge, I just stitched right over the decorative thread to ensure that the points would all sit nicely in place. If you do this as well, make sure that your sewing thread will blend into your Glamour thread.
Lastly, hand sew your buttons in the center of every star/flower.