A Little Background
When I decided I wanted to start sewing I didn’t start with easy projects and progress to more challenging ones. The thing that made me want to start sewing is that I wanted to make a shirt replete with long sleeves sleeve plackets and cuffs back yoke collar stand and collar. No one told me I couldn’t (and I wouldn’t have listened anyway) so I did.
I wish I still had the shirt. In my mind’s eye it was amazing. I’m sure the reality fell somewhat short. (It was before I knew what ease was in the sleeve cap. I just presumed it was a pattern mistake and cut the cap to fit the armscye...)
To make the shirt I had to purchase some basic sewing supplies a pattern fabric (it was light pink with small blue flowers but that’s not why I bought it - I bought it because it was the cheapest fabric I could find) AND a sewing machine. (To lend some perspective to this purchase some 35+ years ago the sewing machine was $199 more than half my monthly rent and 20% of the purchase price of my used car - it was an investment!)
I’m proof that if you stick with something long enough you’ll improve a bit. (Don’t worry - it doesn’t take 35+ years to get good. Had it taken that long I would have chosen something else... like brain surgery. Sometimes sewing feels like brain surgery!)
The challenge with being a beginner is often just that - no one likes to be a beginner myself included. I want immediate gratification and to be an instant expert. Alas that expert thing requires a bit of tenacity while you add to your repetoire of skills.
And there’s the rub. Pattern instructions provide what are called in industry the “order of operations” - sew this first then this. And patterns provide instructions on how to get from step one to step two and soon. However instructions presume a level of sewing skills commensurate with the project you are undertaking. (No one presumed that this man was going to take on an intermediate project as his first foray into sewing. And it didn’t occur to me that I should start with something more manageable. Frankly it’s not my way.)
So how do you “next-level” your sewing skills? One way is to latch on to someone who has been where you are and has spent a LOT of time “next-leveling” sewing skills. If you’re willing to ride my coattails as it were I’m happy to share the things I’ve learned along the way.
What Makes for Next Level Sewing?
For me I find that finishing is what often separates skilled sewists from other sewists - they know what they need to do to optimize finish whether it is grading and pressing seam allowances open before turning into finished positions cording a buttonhole or shortening stitch length when coming to a corner that is going to be clipped. (There’s 4 tips right there!)
Since we’re on the subject of shirts let’s talk about one of the first things I notice - collar points. (We can discuss fit and pattern matching at another time. And I’ve got a nifty trick for making really clean patch pockets.) Well-crafted collar points typically (not always) come to very crisp sharp points. If the collar points are rounded it suggests that the person who constructed it didn’t know how to finish them successfully.
Next Level Collar Points
Since we’re on the subject of shirts let’s talk about one of the first things I notice - collar points. (We can discuss fit and pattern matching at another time. And I’ve got a nifty trick for making really clean patch pockets.) Well-crafted collar points typically (not always) come to very crisp sharp points. If the collar points are rounded it suggests that the person who constructed it didn’t know how to finish them successfully.
Let me share a couple of tricks. (And you can apply these tricks to any type of angled corner on any type of project.)
Interfacing
In the tailoring world and typically throughout the rest of the sewing world we are always trying to reduce bulk wherever possible. When making a shirt most often the upper collar is interfaced. When making a shirt from a pattern the pattern instructions will indicate that you need to interface the collar. What the instructions typically don’t tell you is what type of interfacing to use (that’s another article or two...) and how to cut the interfacing.
When interfacing the upper collar the best practice is to cut the interfacing the same size as the collar but remove the seam allowances. This reduces the bulk in the seam allowances and helps to arrive at much sharper collar points.
The next step is to cut away the triangle of interfacing right at the corners - no more than 1/8”. This removes the bulk of the interfacing at the collar points and will set you firmly on the path to successful collar points.
Finally when sewing “lasso” the stitch to make the collar point easier to turn.
Lassoing the Stitch
What do you mean “lasso” the stitch?
First things first cut two lengths of thread about 12”. They will serve as your lassos for the collar points.
Sew toward the corner. A stitch before you reach the corner sink the needle in the fabric.
Retrieve one of your lassos.
Raise the presser foot and “floss” the lasso between the upper and under collars. Hold the thread snugly against the front of the needle.
Lower the presser foot and take one stitch toward the corner. You’ve captured your thread. (One of the hints earlier was to shorten your stitch length as you enter and leave corners. I do this for about 1/2”. It stabilizes the corner and allows me to be more aggressive about grading the seam allowance.)
Raise the presser foot up again. Bring the length of thread that remains outside of the collar around to the inside between the upper and under collars.
Direct the thread so it doesn’t get caught in the next line of stitching. Continue sewing.
Pivot at the corner and continue sewing. (If you shortened your stitch length don’t forget to lengthen it about 1/2” from the corner.)
Repeat for the other collar point.
Press and Grade Seam Allowances
Press seam allowances open.
Grade seam allowances at the corners (trim them down so they don’t take up as much space.)
Turn and Press Collar
Turn right-side-out. With a point turner “lift” the corners out as far as they will go. (You don’t want to push the point turner into the corner - the seam allowances just get crammed into the corner. A lifting action with pressure toward the corner will allow the seam allowances to settle.
Once you have done all that you can with the point turner carefully pull on the two thread tails - the “lasso” - to pull the corner into position. (Careful - if you exert too much pressure you’ll either break the lasso or break the stitch.)
Once turned press the collar into position pressing from collar points toward the center. (You don’t want to press toward the collar points - it can create buckling at the collar points.)
Download the How to Create Perfect Sharp Collar Points resource document here.
